Crochet Raglan Sweater - Free Pattern

Unleash Your Inner Artist with a Rainbow Stripe Crochet Raglan Sweater Pattern!

Get ready to dive into a world of color and creativity with this vibrant and fun rainbow stripe crochet raglan sweater pattern! This unique piece isn't just a sweater; it's a canvas for your imagination, allowing you to explore a palette of colors that truly reflect your personal style.

The yarn colors and stripes in the sample shown are a suggestion. You can make it solid or full of multiple stripes for a stash-busting project.

Materials:

• DK Weight Yarn shown in Knit Picks Brava Sport

  Estimated Amount: 1150 (1250, 1350, 1450, 1550, 1700, 1800) yds / 1050 (1150, 1250, 1325, 1425, 1575, 1650) m

• Size H 5mm crochet hook for body / 4.5 mm hook for ribbing

• Tapestry needle

• Stitch Markers - 8 for raglan markers, 1 (optional) for beginning of round

Gauge:

14 stitches & 12 rows = 4"/10 cm in half double crochet

Finished Sizes:

Chest Circumference: 36.5 [40, 44.5, 48, 52.5, 56, 59.5]"

Upper Arm: 14.75 [15.75, 17, 18, 20, 21, 22.75]

For the relaxed fit shown in the sample, choose a size that is 4-6"/ 10-15cm larger than your actual chest measurement.

Abbreviations:

blo: back loop only

ch: chain

hdc: half double crochet

hdc2tog: half double crochet 2 together (decrease)

m: marker

pm: place marker

RS: right side

sc: single crochet

sl-st: slip stitch

WS: wrong side

Notes:

• Ch 2 may be substituted as a ch 1 for the turning chain.

• Turning chains do not count for the final stitch count in each round.

• Stitch markers are used to mark the raglan stitches where increases will be made.

• This sweater is crocheted in the round. Each round will end with a slip stitch to join the first stitch of the round and then the work is turned to work the other side in the opposite direction. Rounds will be indicated by right side (RS) or wrong side (WS).

• Be sure to count the stitches in your rounds as you are working increases for the yoke or decreases in the sleeve.

• The sizes given are guidelines from standard size charts, however, all bodies are shaped differently. It is a good idea to try on the sweater as it is being constructed to make any adjustments as needed. Customization options are added throughout the pattern, so be sure to read to the end before beginning.

Yarn Colors/Striping:

For the sample I began with the main color for the collar and first 4 rounds of the yoke. I then changed colors in the rainbow sequence (8 colors total) every 4 rounds. After the rainbow sequence for the upper body and sleeves, I switched back to the main color.

For the colors I used Knit Picks Brava Sport in the colors Dove Heather (main color), Cotton Candy, Seashell, Custard, Alfalfa, Tranquil, Cornflower, Sky and Lady Slipper. One skein of each of the rainbow colors is recommended and 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 5) skeins of the main color.

Instructions:

Collar:

Row 1: With smaller hook for ribbing, ch 5, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. – 4 sts.

Rows 2- 80 (84, 88, 92, 96, 104, 104): ch 1, sc blo to end of row. Turn. – 4 sts

Fold ribbing in half, working in the back loops of the last row made, slip stitch the ends together to join. Turn the ribbing so the seam is on the inside.

Switch to larger hook for body. Ch 1, place one sc in the end of each row of the ribbing, join with a sl-st in the first sc. Do not turn.  — 80 [84, 88, 92, 96, 104, 104] sts

For a video tutorial on how to make this ribbing go here: https://youtu.be/P-9MzM1Pd6A

Raglan Setup:

Round 1 (RS): ch 1, hdc in same st, hdc in the next 11 (12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 16) sts, 2 hdc in next st, pm in 2nd st of the 2 just made, 2 hdc in next st, pm in 1st st of the 2 just made, hdc in the next 12 (12, 12, 12, 12, 12, 12) sts, 2 hdc in next st, pm in 2nd st of the 2 just made, 2 hdc in next st, pm in 1st st of the 2 just made, hdc in the next 24 (26, 28, 30, 32, 36, 36) sts, 2 hdc in next st, pm in 2nd st of the 2 just made, 2 hdc in next st, pm in 1st st of the 2 just made, hdc in the next 12 (12, 12, 12, 12, 12, 12) sts, 2 hdc in next st, pm in 2nd st of the 2 just made, 2 hdc in next st, pm in 1st st of the 2 just made, hdc in the last 12 (13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 17) sts, join with a sl-st in the first hdc. Turn. — 88 [92, 96, 100, 104, 112, 112] sts

Round 2 (WS): ch 1, hdc in next st (the stitch after the turning ch), *hdc to st before next m, remove m from next st, 2 hdc in st, pm in 2nd st of the 2 just made, remove m from next st, 2 hdc in st, pm in 1st st of the 2 just made; repeat from * three more times, hdc to end, join with a sl-st in the first hdc. Turn. — 96 [100, 104, 108, 112, 120, 120] sts

Yoke:

Rounds 3 - 16 [18, 20, 22, 24, 24, 26]: ch 1, hdc in next st (the stitch after the turning ch), *hdc to st before next m, remove m from next st, 2 hdc in st, pm in 2nd st of the 2 just made, remove m from next st, 2 hdc in st, pm in 1st st of the 2 just made; repeat from * three more times, hdc to end, join with a sl-st in the first hdc. Turn. — [8 sts increased]

You should finish after completing a wrong-side row.

Stitch count: 208 [228, 248, 268, 288, 296, 312]

Front/Back stitches: 58 [64, 70, 76, 82, 86, 90]

Sleeve Stitches (each side): 46 [50, 54, 58, 62, 62, 66]

Measure yoke and check fit:

Fold the yoke in half along the top of the shoulders with the front facing. It should measure approximately 7.25 [8, 8.5, 9.25, 10, 10, 10.5]” / 18.5 [20, 21.5, 23.5, 25.5, 25.5, 26.5]cm from the top of the shoulders to the last row. You may also want to try it on to check the fit.

To add additional length to the yoke, add rounds of hdc stitch without increases. Work one hdc in each marked raglan stitch instead of 2 and replace the stitch marker into the single stitch. Be sure to end after completing a wrong side row.  

Separate sleeves and body:

Round 1 (RS): ch 1, hdc in next st, hdc to st before next m, remove m from next st, hdc in st, ch 6 (6, 8, 8, 10, 12, 14), skip the next 46 (50, 54, 58, 62, 62, 66) sts for the sleeve, removing the 2 markers on either side of the sleeve stitches as you work, remove m from next st, hdc in st, hdc across front to st before next m, remove m from next st, hdc in st, ch 6 (6, 8, 8, 10, 12, 14) sts, skip the next 46 (50, 54, 58, 62, 62, 66) sts for the sleeve removing the 2 markers on either side of the sleeve stitches as you work, remove m from next st, hdc in st, hdc to end, join with a sl-st in the first hdc. Turn. — 116 [128, 140, 152, 164, 172, 180] hdc sts, 12 [12, 16, 16, 20, 24, 28] ch sts

Round 2 (WS): ch 1, hdc in next st, hdc in each st around, placing one hdc in each of the ch sts under the arm, join with a sl-st in the first hdc. Turn.  — 128 [140, 156, 168, 184, 196, 208] sts

Body:

Rounds 3 – 38: ch 1, hdc in next st and in each st to end, join with a sl-st in first hdc st. Turn.  — 128 [140, 156, 168, 184, 196, 208] sts

You may adjust the length to the desired size before the ribbed hem which will measure 1.5” / 4cm. If removing or adding rounds, be sure to end after completing a wrong side round.  

Hem:

Round 1 (RS): ch 1, sc in same st and each st around, join with a sl-st in first sc. Do not turn. — 128 [140, 156, 168, 184, 196, 208] sts

Switch to the smaller hook for ribbing.

Ribbing:

Row 1: ch 7, sc in the 2nd ch from hook and each ch to the bottom edge of the sweater, sl-st into st at base of ch sts, and sl-st into next st. Turn. — 6 sts

Row 2: working back up the row of ribbing, skip the 2 sl-sts just made and sc in blo of each st to top of the row. Turn. — 6 sts

Row 3: ch 1, working back down the row of ribbing, sc in blo to bottom of the row, sl-st into next st (not the base stitch of current row—the next one) then sl-st into following st. Turn.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 to the final stitch and fasten off leaving a long strand of yarn for sewing. Using a tapestry needle, seam the ribbing edges together. Fasten off.

For a video tutorial on how to make this ribbing go here: https://youtu.be/P-9MzM1Pd6A

Sleeve (make 2):

Round 1 (RS): join in the top of the 4th (4th, 5th, 5th, 6th, 7th, 8th) ch from the underarm, ch 1, hdc in same st and next 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 5, 6) chs, working in the corner space and the first hdc of the sleeve - hdc2tog, hdc to last hdc of sleeve sts, working in the last hdc and the corner space - hdc2tog, hdc in the final 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 6, 7) ch sts, join with a sl-st in the first hdc. Turn. — 52 [56, 62, 66, 72, 74, 80] sts

Rounds 2-4: ch 1, hdc in each st around, join with a sl-st in the first hdc. Turn. — 52 [56, 62, 66, 72, 74, 80] sts

Round 5 (RS – Decrease Round): ch 1, hdc in next st, hdc2tog, hdc to last 3 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in last, join with a sl-st in first hdc. Turn. — 50 [54, 60, 64, 70, 72, 78] sts

Continue to work decreases on the following rounds per size:

Size 1: 11, 17, 23, 29, 33, 37, 41, 45, 49

Size 2: 9, 13, 17, 21, 25, 29, 33, 37, 41, 45, 49

Size 3: 9, 13, 17, 21, 25, 29, 33, 37, 41, 43, 45, 47, 49

Size 4: 9, 13, 17, 21, 25, 29, 33, 35, 37, 39, 41, 43, 45, 47, 49

Sizes 5 and 6: 9, 13, 17, 21, 25, 27, 29, 31, 33, 35, 37, 39, 41, 43, 45, 47, 49

Size 7: 9, 13, 15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29, 31, 33, 35, 37, 39, 41, 43, 45, 47, 49

Work rounds without decreases between these rounds as you did in rounds 2-4 until 50 rounds have been made total (you will finish after completing a WS round). — 32 [32, 34, 34, 36, 38, 38] sts

Check the sleeve length. Additional rounds may be added before the cuff which will measure 1.5” / 4cm. To shorten the sleeves, remove regular rounds between the decrease rounds.

Sleeve Cuff:

Round 1 (RS): ch 1, sc in same st and each st around, join with a sl-st in first sc. Do not turn. — 32 [32, 34, 34, 36, 38, 38] sts

Switch to the smaller hook for ribbing.

Ribbing:

Row 1: ch 7, sc in the 2nd ch from hook and each ch to the cuff, sl-st into st at base of ch sts, and sl-st into next st. Turn. — 6 sts

Row 2: working back up the row of ribbing, skip the 2 sl-sts just made and sc in blo of each st to top of the row. Turn. — 6 sts

Row 3: ch 1, working back down the row of ribbing, sc in blo to bottom of the row, sl-st into next st (not the base stitch of current row—the next one) then sl-st into following st. Turn.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 to the final stitch and fasten off leaving a long strand of yarn for sewing. Using a tapestry needle, seam the ribbing edges together. Fasten off.

For a video tutorial on how to make this ribbing go here: https://youtu.be/P-9MzM1Pd6A

Finishing:

Weave in all loose ends with a tapestry needle and block using desired method.

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Feel free to tag Be Ewenique Boutique in any photos of your creations or social media posts that you share. I absolutely love to see your work!

Copyright:

Use of the written instructions as well as permission to sell the products made from the pattern is granted for craft or handmade businesses and not for mass production use. This permission is given with the agreement of acknowledgement to this pattern or a link back to this pattern if used for web sites, blogs or for sale sites.

Please note that the specific instructions, photos, graphics and video contained in this tutorial are the property of Be Ewenique Boutique/Lara Serbousek. Copying, selling or distribution of the pattern or parts of the pattern without permission is prohibited and protected under copyright law. No authorized reproduction whole or in part is allowed.